The Life Aquatic

As I type this, three hurricane's are barreling across the Pacific, setting a historic record. The second of them, Ignacio, performed a near miss with Hawai'i's Big Island, so of course it's a perfect time to Kauai, right?

In actuality, our decision to return to the Garden Island had less to do with historic weather phenomenon, and more to do with the realization -several months ago- that some Alaska Airlines Companion Tickets were about to expire; and from our wonderful memories of our trip to Kauai three years ago.

Our departure, yesterday, was smooth, and -in an unexpected twist- two of our tickets were upgraded to First Class. Unfortunately, though, only two. (Woe is us, right?) Sarah suggested that Stella and I take the tickets, since she had recently gotten to ride First Class on a work trip, and -despite a perfunctory attempt at chivalry- I agreed. So, while Sarah and Otto crammed into Coach with the other commoners, Stella and I spread out in our luxurious seats, enjoying meals served with actual, metal utensils, mango French toast, salmon cakes, fruit platters, complimentary Mai Tai's and tropical mimosas... and that was just Stella's share.



Pretty rough, being a First Grader in First Class.

Arriving relaxed and refreshed in Kauai (well, at least Stella and I), we were immediately attacked by the humidity. Seattle and Washington state have had one of their hottest Summers on record, with wildfires engulfing large swaths of Eastern Washington, but still, it's a rare thing for heat and humidity to mix in the Pacific Northwest. So, whenever I walk in to that wall of moisture and sweat, there is something in me that immediately declares "exotic vacation!"

Collecting our luggage and braving the queues of Alamo car rental (which, as near as I can tell, had every tourist in Kauai waiting for their car), we set off in our (sexy, sexy) mini-van. First up: Lunch at Hamura Saimin! We'd first experienced Saimin -basically a fancy top ramen, with egg and a variety of meats piled on top- on our last trip to Kauai, and Sarah and read about this place -a local favorite- on Yelp. With it's unique rows of booths and somnambulistic wait staff, Hamura definitely had characters, and -as a half dozen local women sat down at our table with us- we realized it was also filled with characters. The woman, amazingly friendly and quick with the in-joke, were more than happy to teach me how to properly mix the chili water, mustard and soy sauce to make the perfect dipping sauce, while rattling of a laundry list of their other favorite restaurants, shaved ice stands and hints on how to get cheap groceries on the North Shore (trick: you buy them on the South Shore). With our stomachs of tasty noodles, we were back in the (sexy, sexy) mini-van and on the road North.

Not feeling the usual urge to race to our rental unit, we stopped next at Kapaa for shaved ice. The Hawaiian specialty, shaved ice, is something that Sarah and I both equate more with our trip to Oahu, years ago, but Wailua Shave Ice might change that. While previous shaved ices were content to be candy colored ice, served in a plastic cone, Wailua's shaved ice was a heading pile of flavored, topped with a mix of fruit puree, chopped fruit and served in a porcelain cup.

Shaved ice!

Then, it was on the road, again. While Sarah and I gravitate to new locations and destinations, it is fun when we get to revised places we've been before; and the drive to Princeville, outside of Hanalai, where our condo was located, was filled with memories: "Oh, that's where we stopped to change Otto's diaper." "I think it was up there that Justin, Gautam and I took the kids and had that great breakfast served by some random hippy commune." "Where was that great BBQ place?"

The condo we are renting, while not as palatial as our house from our last visit, still seems great, with a giant, wrap-around lanai, open layout and plenty of bedrooms and bath rooms for the four of us. Plus, it has access to a pool.

It's with a small degree of embarrassment that we've realized that Stella should be able to swim by now. Sarah actually spent a number of years working as both a lifeguard and a swim instructor, so it seems extra incongruous that we've managed to go this long without getting her into regular lessons. (To be fair, several years ago, Sarah signed her up for some beginners lessons, but she wasn't ready for it, and since then we've sort of just dropped the ball.) Still, with a week ahead of us, we decided to do what little we could to at least get her more accustom to the basics of being in the water.

So, we spent our first afternoon, with the kids taking turns with our one child-sized life jacket, while the other took impromptu swim lessons from Sarah. Then, toward the end, Otto became obsessed with climbing around the perimeter of the pool, while hanging from the edges of it. This seemed harmless enough until, as we walked back from the pool, he revealed his hands were now littered with blisters. Yow.

One day in Kauai has translated to 4 Band Aids. This is not going to end well.

At this point, general fatigue also started to catch up with the children and -despite a fairly successful grocery shopping trip to Princeville's sticker-shock Food Land, there was a good deal of crying until Otto eventually crashed on the couch and then both Sarah and Stella crashed a short while later in bed.

The living room... with a crashed out Otto-bot.

That night (well, last night) was a strange and fitful affair. The North Shore of Kauai is one of the wettest places on Earth, and that was on full display with what could only be called intermittent typhoons. Combine that with the wind whipping through the condo's open layout and randomly slamming doors and a little boy waking up confused and wondering were his PJs were... and I don't think that either Sarah or I got what could be called a restful nights sleep. But, unlike our typical day, there was neither an alarm clock, nor a needy child to wake us up... so we both awoke ready for our first full day in Kauai.

Kauai decided to greet us with more rain. While the sun kept shyly revealing itself, it would just as quickly be replaced by an epic downpour. Still, Sarah and I were both content with this situation and hunkered down on the balmy lanai with our cups of Kona coffee and new books. The kids for their part, after a day of traveling seemed content to chase each other around the condo and draw pictures on coffee filters.

The view, whenever the rain let up, at least. You can see why Sarah and I might be happy just sitting on the deck.

Still eventually, we felt like it was time to explore the island a bit. So, it was off to Ke'e Beach! The kids were dragging their feet ("beaches are boring, we want to go to the pool") and it was still downpouring, but both Sarah and I had loved Ke'e Beach on our first trip (though I could never quite remember it's name), and it seemed like as good a destination as any.

During the long and winding trip to the end of the road, crossing the one-way bridges and passing beach after semi-hidden beach, the rain continued to dump on us. The whole time the kids continued to ask: "What will we do if we get there and it's raining?" To which we'd respond: "We'll find something else to do." ...But, I'm not sure we really had a plan B.

Luckily, we didn't end up needing one. As we pulled up to the Ke'e Beach parking lot, the sun finally made it's first real appearance of the day. And, as an added bonus, the morning's precipitation had chased of most of the crowds, leaving the beach with a fraction of the numbers we remembered.

And, Y'know what? The kids realized that beaches weren't boring. In fact, between their sand, and waves and water, they are actually sort of fun. They are even more fun when they meet twin 5-year-old girls from Edmunds who are willing to build epic sea-walls with them.

Testing out the water. 

 Ke'e Beach. As you can tell by this picture, it's a real dive. I mean, who would want to spend their day here?

I hiked up the beach a bit, and took a picture back down the way I came. You can see Ke'e Beach, and then the Na Pali Coast disappearing into the mist and rain behind it. Na Pali is only accessible by boat or along the 11 mile trail that runs down the coast. Someday, Sarah and I would love to try it, but maybe not with a daredevil preschooler in tow.

(At this point, it probably bears mentioning that Sarah and I have noticed something with the kids, when it comes to water: Stella is overly cautious and Otto has no sense of self-preservation. While it took a lot of coaxing just to get Stella to go into the water passed her knees; Otto, meanwhile, continued to charge headlong into the water, seemingly presuming that he'd figure out the swimming thing later. As needed. Sarah and I agree that we sort of wish we could split the difference when it came to their collective aquatic courage.)

Anyhow, despite one or two passing showers, the middle of the day passed amazingly. Pretty much perfectly. Beautiful scenery. Perfect ocean water temperatures. Pristine beach. Entertaining wild chickens. Sun. Forgotten sun screen.

...oh, wait. What was that last part?

Well, this morning, as we prepared to head out, a conversation occurred that went something like this:

"OK, the kids have sun screen on them."
"Great, Tyler. Did you put some on yourself?"
"On my arms and legs. I'll put some on my torso when we get there."
"You should really do your chest and back now. It'll be easier."

At this point, I decided to heed Sarah's advice, and properly covered my chest with sunscreen. Then, I intended to ask Sarah to get my back for me. But, she was busy. Then I was busy. And then the thought went completely out of my mind. And then, later, I convinced myself that she had put sun screen on my back, and I'd just forgotten.

And now my back it really sun burnt.

Attempt to show off my sun burn, or just give you all a sexy, topless selfie? You make the call!

And so now, while everyone else is asleep, and the rain falls again our rooftop, I sit here, enjoying the cool breeze, trying to figure out how to squeeze our dinner at Chicken in a Barrel into the final paragraph of this blog entry, while waiting for the air to cool enough to finally venture to bed myself.

More aloe!

Chicken in a Barrel!! So good!

A Long Walk in the Woods

The Summer has been a hot one. As hot as any I can remember in my -nearly- 40 years living in this state. Because of this, there's been a lot of motivation to get out doors and, luckily, this happened to pair nicely with both of the kids finally being old enough that we could easily drag them along on hike of three to four miles. As a result, we've done a lot of hiking and camping this year. Especially in comparison to the last few years, were we've considered ourselves luck if we got up into the mountains more than a couple of times a season.

Unfortunately, we've been a lot better about hiking recently than we have been about posting here, so we haven't had a chance to talk about it here. I'm going to try to fix that. This is going to be a big, jumbo, woodsy post. But, to keep things manageable, and to keep my sanity (hopefully), I'm going to try to limit it to a paragraph of two about each outing, and only a couple of pictures. If I can.

Here goes...

Snow Shoeing At Sleeping Lady
While a lot of our hiking has been driven by the warm weather, our first outing actually happened just a day or two into 2015. We had, rather promptly, decided to spend New Years weekend at Sleeping Lady, a resort in Leavenworth, a few hours outside of Seattle. While a whole entry could -and probably should- be written about that weekend, one of the most noteworthy experiences was all of us snowshoeing for the first time.

I'd actually been dubious of the idea, though it's been something Sarah has been interested in for some time. But, I have to admit it was a smashing success, and I was definitely a convert. What I'd imaged would be a tear filled session of the kids rolling around in the snow actually was a delightful experience, wandering snow covered paths, as cross country skier slide silently past us.

There was definitely some falling that occurred. But, most of it was more humorous than tearful.

Snowshoes around!

Franklin Fall

(April)

The second hike of the season actually resulted from a failed snow shoeing attempt. Later in January, we decided it would be fun to try snow shoeing again, and headed for the pass. Unfortunately, the Winter had been so warm that they'd already closed all the snow shoeing trails. So, after eating lunch at a pancake house across the street from a sad looking ski slope littered with skier trying to find some pleasure in grass dotted sheets of slush, we double back to Franklin Falls, which we had hike before on previous Summers. 

While snow shoeing had been a bust, we were glad that we had brought the kids snow suits, since the trail was slick with ice and slush itself. The kids seemed to take it in stride though, spending as much time falling and slipping in muck as they did actually hiking. 

 A sample portion of the trail. Still covered with a slick sheet of ice.

 The falls themselves. We actually weren't able to take the kids down to them, owing to the slick path. Still, nice view!

Happy hikers! ...though you can't tell with Otto. This was in the middle of his "I'm not looking at the camera phase," which dominated much of the Winter and early Spring.

Dorthy Lake

When it came time to pack for our hike to Dorthy Lake, the memory of slipping on snow was still fresh in the kids mind, and they insisted on packing their snow suits. I poo-pooed the idea, but Sarah humored them and they ended up being smarter than dad. When we pulled into the parking lot of the trail head, it was grey and wet, but -as we pushed farther uphill- large wet snowflakes began to fall. 

Still, this was our first hike to Dorthy Lake, but likely not our last. The lake itself was beautiful and -with the white flakes falling around us- the whole location had that mysterious feeling of being on the edge of deep winlderness.

 The snow beginning to fall on the approach to the Lake.

The view out and across the lake. When I see vistas like this, with distant, mist enshrouded mountains, it makes me thing "there be monsters" in all the right way.

Descending, as the snow falls more and more heavily around us.

Nisqually Wildlife Refuge

With it's well-build wood boardwalks and level ground, the Nisqually Wildlife Refuge always feels more like a pleasant stroll than a true hike. But, at the same time, you are walking on those boardwalks for several miles out in bird-filled tide flats, often under unrelenting sun. So, we'll count it here. 

We've done this hike several times before, but this trip was noteworthy in that it was the first time that all four of us made it out to the viewing platform at the end of the boardwalk. Also, less amusingly, it will be remembered as the time that Otto got halfway there, and then decided that he needed to go the bathroom "super bad" and I was stuck carrying him back to the outhouses and back. (Sadly, no just peeing on a bush when you are out over exposed tide flats.)

 Otto bird watching. Or, at least watching something.

 Stella and I, a bit punching in the sun.

Stella, checking out the tide flats.

Talapus Lake

(May)

By May, things were in full swing for us, hiking-wise. Which, honestly, was already a little amazing, because in passed years we'd often encountered cold weather and even snow when trying to explore the mountains this early. Instead, this year, after a brisk uphill hike, we were already soaking out feed in an alpine lake. 

Probably my favorite memory from this particular outing would be Otto jokingly holding out some food to a camp robber bird... only to have it surprise him by happily swooping in and grabbing it. 

 Sarah, Stella and Otto, enjoying the view and the water.

Now entering the Alpine Lake Wilderness. In what would begin to become a bit of a joke, Sarah and I started noting and even taking pictures of the Alpine Lake Wilderness signs. As I maintain: "The Alpine Lake Wilderness always brings it's A Game."

Happy family! Another hike down!

Snow Lake
(May)
Speaking of bringing you "A Game," Snow Lake, located near Mt. Rainier's Paradise Lodge certainly did. The day itself was misty and mysterious, but that only added to the super cool ambiance of this short hike. We rarely make it down to the Mt. Rainier area, owing to so many other, closer hikes, but each time we do, Sarah and I are left scratching our heads and thinking "why aren't we down here all the time." While it's easy to find wilderness in Washington, Rainier's alpine fields and forest are otherworldly and just on a different scale.

 A happy Sarah, in her element.

 The misty, surreal world of Snow Lake.

 At only a little more than a mile in, this hike was easily manageable by these experienced hikers.

More wilderness. Here's the thing about this photo: It's upside down.

Dads and Kids Camping - Kanaskat-Palmer State Park

(May)

After all that hiking, it was time to switch it up and do some camping. Mine friends, Justin and Kip, and I had decided (or possibly our wives had arranged in a Machiavellian-manner, depending on how conspiratorial you are) it would be a good idea to do a "dads and kids" camping trip where we took our collective horde up to the woods for a weekend. 

We decided (owing to the number of kids) that it would be easiest to make reservations at a State Park. And, though we'd never been before, Kanaskat-Palmer ended up being a great fit. While at first I think the three dads were a bit overwhelmed when we realized there's were 2-to1 in the kids favor, we quickly settled in nicely. There was a central (safe-ish) section of forest that the kids had free-reign of and spent most of their time exploring and digging up, which left the dads largely free to put around the campsite, hang out and drink beer. The arrangement suited everyone nicely. 

The second day, what had started as a short walk around the campsite turned into an extended lounging and exploring session down by the adjacent river. Again, a perfect fit.

 The kids, learning valuable life skills from Kip.

 A panorama of the campsite.

 Exploring a small pool next to the river. Where the kids spent most of their afternoon, on the second day.

 Things did occasionally have that Lord of the Flies feel. The boys rarely wearing shirts, and Stella ended up spending about 75% of the trip in her night grown (see photo below).

Six kids, after 48 hours in the woods.

Lake Phuckalia

(June)

The annual trips to "Lake Phuckalia" are well documented in this blog by now. This year marked Sarah's 10th visit to the tried-and-true campsite. And, the hottest. Temperatures were north of 90 for most of the weekend. And, while most trips to Phuckalia involve an obligatory visit to the "Lower Lake Phuckalia" swim hole, this year it was nearly a matter of survival, to get through the hottest part of the day. I know I haven't spent that much time actually swimming there.

 Camping or off to school? It's hard to tell with Otto sometimes.

 The kids, trying out the new horseshoe set. The oppressive heat kept the adults from playing, but I'm sure it will be back for future trips.

 Trying to "beat the heat" in Lower Lake Phuckalia.

There were still some Lord of the Flies moments on this trip too. Otto appears to be stalking Stella and Ryder.

Lake 22

(June)

Lake 22 has been another favorite hike of ours, but none of us had been in several years. And, actually, I still haven't been in several years. While Otto and I attended a Birthday party, Sarah took Stella up for a mommy and daughter hike. So, while I'll post a few pictures here, I -sadly- can't share much beyond the fact that I know they had a great time. Stella was apparently a positive and talkative hiker, and there were lost of salmon and thimble berries to be eaten.

 Happy Sarah and Stella without and grouchy daddy or Otto to slow them down!

 Stella for scale, at Lake 22.

Another hike, another feet soaking in an alpine lake.

Mountain Loop Highway

(4th of July weekend)

The 4th of July weekend found us camping out on the far end of the Moutain Loop Highway, a couple hours north of Seattle. We'd camped in a nearby site last 4th with a coworker of mine and his family, and had a great time, so we were eager to go back and explore some more, now that the kids were a year older. 

Like the last couple of outings the weather was oppressively hot, and there was a veritable mist of biting flies, but it was truly an amazing weekend. Owing to the holiday weekend, out site was small but nice, so we spent most of our day making out way to various alpine lakes. 

The first day was Kalemas Lake. Several miles up a dirt road, the actual hike was less than a mile in, but still the drive must have deterred most day trippers because the trail and lake were both nearly empty. And what an amazing lake it was. And warm! While most lakes are -shall we say- brisk; you could easily float in this lake for extended periods of time, feeling cool and refreshed, but never overwhelmed by the chill.

The second day brought our most ambitious hike. Peek-A-Boo Lake was only listed as being 2.2 miles in, and only 800 feet elevation gain; but what that didn't mention was that the trail actually went steeply up and down several times, bringing total elevation gain to well over 1000 feet. The reward though was worth it, as -again- we found ourselves at another nearly abandoned lake. Still, the kids were tired when we reached the trailhead again.

On the last day, heading out, we decided to check out Coal Lake. This lake wasn't really a hike, but instead it was another drive up a winding dirt road, followed by a quick 100 meter trek in to ...yet another nearly empty lake. Truthfully, there were two fishermen when we arrived, but they promptly left, giving us the entire lake to ourselves. 

When was the last time you got to swim in three separate alpine lakes in one weekend? Definitely a happy 4th of July!

Our campsite. Simple, small, but a nice place to place our chairs with a view of a river, so I ain't complaining.

 Sarah and Stella at Kalcemus Lake. About as warm a wilderness lake as I've ever encountered.

"Daddy, really?" Stella, I think less-than-amused by all the trudging up hill.

...but the pay-off for the hard work was some great vistas and neat alpine fields.

 Me, swimming in Peek-A-Boo Lake. Not nearly as warm, but more remote.

 Coal Lake. We had this whole place to ourselves, for an hour or so. Well, if you don't count those pestering flies.

 Sarah called this our "Wes Anderson kid" photo. Can't argue that.

Franklin Falls Revisited

(July)

Again, I can't share too much about this, since I wasn't there. But, for Sarah's return visit to Franklin Falls, it was Otto's turn to hike with mommy. This time out, they were joined by one of Otto's good school friends and his mom. I don't have much in the way of details, but I know everyone eljoyed themselves. 

Otto, and his friend, Brick, goofing off on a boulder.

As promised, this entry has been a long haul, and it's now well past my bed time. Still, I'm glad I sat down and powered through this. It's been an amazing and fulfilling first half of the year, hiking and camping-wise. And, while I think that most of our wilderness adventures are likely (and sadly) done for the Season, it's been great revisiting and recording them. As always, there are a ton of more pictures on our Flickr page.

OK, now off to bed!