It also didn't help that we only learned about the bus ride when we checked out luggage in at Sea-Tac airport, and the person there explained that while our flight to Tokyo landed in Narita Airport, our flight from there to Osaka departed from Haneda airport, roughly an hour away. Fortunately, while I tried to quell my stress with a beer, Sarah sprung into action and arranged a limousine bus ride the two, and we crossed our fingers that we'd be able to navigate collecting baggage, customs, catching our bus, dropping off luggage again and making it through Haneda security in the 3 hours we had.
When we finally did arrive in Tokyo, 10 hours later, Otto (who had spent the entirety of the flight cheerful watching movies and playing video games) promptly fell sound asleep. Fortunately, while he wouldn't wake up fully, we could effectively guide him as he sleep walked through the rest of the commute, refusing to hold my hand, fearlessly careening through clumps of Japanese travelers, but generally, capably following our lead.
From our seats in the limousine bus, Sarah and I got our first peaks of Japan, and we both agreed that we felt like it reminded us of Hawaii a bit: Lots of green. Green hills. Striking clouded skies. Sudden, fierce rain showers.
Otto making his way to Japan.
We made our flight to Osaka, and then navigated the series of railed vehicles, with the help of several friendly and helpful Japanese travelers and attendant. That was another thing Sarah and I noticed right away. No sooner would we stop to figure out where we were or to buy a ticket, than some random person would swoop in to help us. It was definitely appreciated, as we navigated the public transportation system, with several large backpacks, one tired kid and one sleepwalker in tow, while trying to climatize to the sweltering heat.
All that said, we were able to successful navigate the gauntlet, and finally crashed onto our sleep mats, in our new, temporary home.
Because of the wonders of international travel, and crossing the date line, we left for Japan early on the 22nd, but didn't arrive until late the 23rd. So, our bodies awoke early on the 24th, both confused about what time it was, and eager to start exploring.
I was the first to venture out, but just to run to a corner market, fittingly named Family Mart, to grab a selection of breakfast food. Family Mart, and it's compete chain, Lawson Station, would become our defacto breakfast provider for much of this trip, with a selection of pastries, mochi, yogurt and the all important "Coffee Boss" (actually "Craft Boss Coffee," but we just referred to it as "Coffee Boss").
Full of food and coffee, we made our way to the subway station, bought a day pass, and caught the subway to Osaka Castle, located in a large green area, in the center of the city. Emerging from the subway, we were again blasted by the heat and humidity, and by the veritable roar of cicadas. We don't really have cicadas in Washington, or at least in any meaningful number, but I'd heard them a few times on other trips, but this was definitely taking things to the next level.
After a quick detour for Otto to get a messy ice cream cone from the omnipresent vending machines that fill Japan and for our first of many shaved ices, we wandered the grounds, taking in the awesome scale of both the castle itself, and the walls and moats that surround it. Avoiding large bees and marveling at giant black and blue butterflies. Nearing the entrance to the castle itself, we decided to not go in, but instead made our way around the backside to it, and began a long, hot, but beautiful walk to a curry Udon place we'd located.
The outer moat and wall for the castle.
Sarah and the kids, just outside the castle.
Carrying on to the far side of the castle grounds.
Despite our breakfast and several cool-down snacks, this was our first real meal in Japan, and it didn't disappoint. The curry udon was super tasty, the restaurant was small and quaint and the food was all severed by a cadre of elder Japanese women who seemed pleased to serve us despite the language barrier.
After dinner, we decided to take a break from the heat, and caught a subway out to Osaka's Aquarium, on the city's revitalized waterfront. Now, while I don't think of aquariums as a "must see" destination, it seems like Sarah and I have now been to our fair share, having not just been to Seattle's, but also Dallas, Libon and Cape Town's aquariums. And, of those, Osaka's might have been the most impressive in terms of sheer scale. It's a winding corkscrew of tunnels and viewing areas, including such crowd pleasers as dolphins and penguins (probably the kids' favorite), but the literal and figurative centerpiece is a giant, multi-story tank big enough to include not one, but two whale sharks. I never thought I'd actually see a real whale shark, but here were two, swimming before me.
Pretty amazing.
The kids watching the penguins. Their favorites.
I would say "people for scale" but the curve of the glass actually makes the whale shark look smaller here than it did in real life.
Having spent several hours navigating the crowds and taking in everything from giant rays, to sea turtles to sun fish and jelly fish, we boarded the subway again, and returned home to give the kids a little downtime, and relax with a cold beers (and some burger flavored chips).
After Sarah had a brief nap, and the kids some screen time, it was time to brave Dotonbori for dinner. To get an idea of what Dotonbori was like, imagine if Times Square was a seemingly never ending avenue, decorated with over the top Japanese signage, and giant animatronic crabs. Rather than describe it, though, let's just look at some pictures.
One of, like, three animatronic crabs we saw.
The canal, one street over, where some sort of ceremonial boat was being navigated down it, to the rhythm of a large drum.
Lights, sounds and crowds.
Snack and water break.
The plan had been to sort of eat our way down the length of Dotonbori, but while we did sample some Okonomiyaki (think a potato and cabbage pancake, with barbeque sauce and bonito flakes on it), jet lag was still catching up with us. All of us quickly began to feel overwhelmed, with Otto refusing to eat anything more than a couple of people of sushi, and the rest of us finding the noise and crowds more tiring than exhilarating. So, after soaking it the scene for a bit, we decided to call it a night and head back.
But... the night would have other plans for us. Earlier, when we got off the subway, I related how the writer in one article I had read had said that "every person gets lost at Namba Station at least once." Apparently, it was our turn. Namba Station and the attached Namba Park shopping mall is a sprawling, largely underground complex of subway stations and a warren of stores and restaurants, and almost as soon as we entered it, we were lost.
It quickly looked like things were going to get bleak, with both the kids fading fast, and Sarah and I quickly getting irritable at the situation and (possibly) each other. But, thankfully, we finally managed to track down our stop to get home. Usually, I like to brag about my navigation skills, but I'm pretty sure that Sarah gets credit that time.
The next morning starts very much like the first: A trip to Family Mart, some breakfast, coffee and out the door.
We decide to start our day by walking to Den-Den Town, a neighborhood that Otto knew he wanted to see, from the first time I described it to him. Den-Den Town (which translates to Electric Town) had original started as a neighborhood specializing in electronic, but in the years since, it's slowly become the cities anime, manga and video game mecca.
The hike to Den-Den Town wasn't long and -thankfully- it was still early enough that it hadn't gotten too hot yet. Stores were just beginning to open when we arrived. The first place we ducked into way a narrow, multi-story shop. The first floor was entirely dedicated to cell phone. The second, video games. The third rented manga DVDs and Blu-Rays. And the forth, final, floor was a manga library. Playing video games on the second floor, Otto seemed legit happy for the first time since we'd arrived.
Oto playing "Arms" on the video game floor. "Can we get this one when we get home?"
The next stop was another massive, multi-storied entertainment center. Each floor seemingly dedicated to different types of games: Crane machine games, dancing and music based games, fighting games, etc. It was amazing and overwhelming. Otto would have likely been content to spend the morning there, playing Street Fighter, and even Stella seemed to be enjoying trying her hand at winning a corgi stuffed animal at the crane game.
More video games!
One of two floors dedicated to crane machine games.
We explored around Den-Den Town for a while longer, looking into several other shops, including one with a Miyazaki paper art section that delighted Sarah and Stella. But, eventually, we started to feel hungry, so it was on to our next stop: Kuroman Ichiba.
Kuroman Ichiba had apparently started out as a legit market, where restaurant owners would go to get their seafood, meat and produce for the day. But, in recent years, tourists have begun to discover the market, and most of the stall owners have begun to prepare and sell food on the side, setting up small tables and stools for people to eat at. In short, it was basically what Sarah and I had been hoping Dotonbori street would be like, the night before.
And we proceeded to eat our way down the market alleyway: Sushi, grilled rice balls, shaved ice, squid, scallops, salmon, octopus, kobe beef, pork cutlet, mochi, candied fruit... and much, much more. By the time we reached the far end, we had all found something we liked, and we were all stuffed.
A vendor prepares seafood skewers. Most of the food was prepared this way, simply, on a small grill with made just a splash of soy sauce.
The view down Kuroman Ichiba.
Despite the heat, and despite the fact that our route takes us through a long covered mall and back though Namba Station, we make it home uneventfully.
After some downtime, back at our place, we decide to make the hike to the nearby Namba Yasaka Shrine, which is known for it's giant Lion's head statue. Unfortunately, we lingered too long at our place, and by the time we make it there, the shrines gates are already closed and locked. Stella is bummed, almost surprisingly so, getting teary eyed and talking about how "this was our one chance to seem it."
To regroup, and hopefully get her mind off it a little bit, we take the kids over a simple, nearby park, where Stella and Otto are able to swing and play a little, while Sarah and I plan our next steps, while marveling at the young children seemingly playing unattended, without an adult to be scene: Something that feels both surprisingly in such an urban setting, but also reminds us how overprotective America culture has become since our own childhoods.
Eventually, we decide to try to go to another nearby temple, just because its near and then go back by the Namba Yasaka Shrine, because Stella wants to take another peak through the fence. The other temple is a bust, since it's also closed. But, when we reach the gate of the Lion Shrine, I realize that, by holding my phone up, I can take a picture of it over the gate, and I am even able to quickly lift Stella up so she can take a peak in person. All of which seems to cheer her up.
My photo of the Lion's Head Shrine, over the gate.
After that, make our way across a busy street to a ramen shop. It's another narrow restaurant, with a long counter and some booths in the back. The cook directs us on how to order via a ticket machine, a process we'd read about but not encountered yet. And, soon we are all enjoying out dinners: Sarah and I happily slurping ramen and the kids eating several platters of potstickers.
Enjoying dinner. I think Stella is puffing out, because the potsticker is fresh.. and hot.
With food in our bellies and the disappointment of the closed shrine behind us, we make our way home, passing possibly the world most exciting looking grocery store...
From here on our QFC and Safeway will always look boring.
Tomorrow, we would leave Osaka, and head on to the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Trail...
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