Japanese Italian and Secret Sushi

 Tyler Reporting:

(Continuing my ongoing transcription of my Morning Pages journal entries detailing our 3-week trip to Korea and Japan.)

Day 9 - This was a long haul. We got up, grabbed our bags and headed out from the ancient hotel at Yuda Onsen. Fortunately, we just the few packs to carry because most of our luggage was being shipped ahead. Still a long, hot walk to the train station.

On the walk to the station, there was this foot bath. But, Otto's face may give you an impression about how hot it was.

Another day, another train ride.

From there, it was a short-ish ride to Hofu, where Y had lived for 3 years teaching English. We managed to track down her old apartment, and then -after a restroom break at YouMe, a grocery store- we were directed by a helpful local lady to an Italian restaurant that was quite good, with tasty ingredients and sort of a Japanese twist on traditional Italian. 

The "kid's table" at the Italian restaurant. Probably happy to have a break from more kaiseke meals.

Then we made a trek to a shine in town that was beautiful...but HOT. Especially having to climb all the steps to the top of it. Also, humorously, we walked into a design companies office, thinking they were a boutique store. There was also a foot soaking pool to help to cool down.

The shrine is at the top of these steps. Get ready to sweat!

I believe these are prayers or wishes. The ox and horse are linked to the shrine, and you see their images and statues everywhere. 

The kids "fishing" for good luck.

The main shrine building itself.

After a long, hot trek back to the train station, it was onward to Miyajima Island and another loooooong train ride (about 2 hours this time), but I don't think any of us minded its length as a way to beat the heat. We got off the train, walked a few blocks and boarded a ferry to the island itself. It's small and quaint here, though it gets overrun by tourists during the day. But, since it was early evening, we walked up the quiet streets, through a tunnel and to our hotel that is a nicer, more modern version of where we stayed in Yuda Onsen. 

Our first view of the island, from the ferry. You can see Miyajima's famous torii gate in the water on the center-right.

There are semi-tame deer all over the island, trying to snag tourists food. At first the parents in the group were all "don't touch the deer." But, when the deer come up and start nuzzling you, it's a little hard to enforce that rule.

The tunnel we'd pass through coming and going from our hotel. Meant for cars, more frequently used by pedestrians.

That evening was just settling in (read: the kids throwing a fit about the room situation until we relented and let them all share a room), then baths, and finally dinner.

Day 10 - The next morning, we awoke for breakfast and then set out to check out the island. First it was down to a busy shopping street. (Where I got delightful lemon shaved ice.) Past the orange torii gate and shrine both scenically placed in the harbor and the catching a shuttle bus to the two rope lines up Mount Misen. 

The bustling pedestrian shopping street. The Japanese (and the South Korean's for that matter) love their pedestrian shopping streets.

The main shrine on Miyajima. When the tide is in, it appears to float on water. The tide was out when we were there.

The orange torii gate. Consistently listed as one of Japanese most beautiful destinations. It is pretty cool and iconic looking.

You take two separate gondolas (or "rope lines") to a viewpoint, but then it's another 30-minute hike to the summit. And the hike to and from there might have been the most I've ever sweat in my life. It was comical.

Taking in the view as we go higher and higher on the rope line.

Looking back down the lower rope line. In the distance, you can see Hiroshima, across the water.

The boys ran ahead and were supposed to wait at the Shrine (of Eternal Fire), but carried on to the summit, which created some confusion as we got spread out. But, once we were all there, the view was stunning. We rested for a bit, and then it was back down... 30 more minutes of hiking, two rope lines and a shuttle for some (though J, the boys and I just hiked down that last part).

The Shrine of Eternal Fire. Mount Misen has a number of supernatural claims to fame, including this flame which has been kept going since a Buddhist monk set it 1200 years ago.

Another deer strikes a pose amongst the shrines and offerings.

We all made it! Sweaty, but in one piece... if not as a single group.

My attempt at a panorama from the summit.

Back in town, people were getting hungry and cranky. Stella was basically going sideways the whole day. So, it was snacks, drinks in the park while the tame deer there tried to steal our stuff.

We quickly bathed and the adults went out to an amazing sushi dinner for J's Birthday, which happened to be that day. I mean really good, and in a neat, sort of hidden off the street restaurant.

The "blink and you'll miss it" entrance to Miyajima Sushi Tensen, the sushi restaurant we went to.

The chef, preparing a round of food for us. Everything was super thoughtfully prepared and excellent.

Then some late evening beers in the bedroom, until we all crashed. 

It's the next morning, and now it's time to brave Hiroshima. I say "brave" because it will undoubtedly be an emotionally challenging experience. But now it's time to wake the kids and get cleaned up for breakfast. Onward!