Japan: The Kumano Kodo Trail

The next morning, after our failed visit to the Lion Shrine (and our more successful visit to the ramen shop), we got up, did our usual Family Mart breakfast, packed up and left our Osaka Airbnb, for the next step on our journey: Hiking the Kumano Kodo Trail. 

From the earliest stages of planning our Japan Trip, we had planned on doing a hiking portion. We've learned, after several trips with the kids, that it's best to balance busy city days with less hectic rural or wilderness days. Initially, we'd discussed going to Japanese northern-most major island, Hokkaido. But, when it became apparent that trying to get from the Kyoto region to Hokkaido would be difficult on our time table, we started looking for hiking opportunities closer to Kyoto. And, that's when we discovered the Kumano Kodo Trail. 

The Kumano Kodo is an ancient Shinto pilgrimage trail, crisscrossing the Kii Pennisula and connecting three major Shinto Shrine. It is also one of two pilgrimages trails recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the other being the more famous Camino de Santiago in Spain. To do the whole trail takes a week or more, but working with a travel agency, Sarah was able to arrange a 3 day version, stopping in a different village each night, and taking in two of the three major shrines. As an added bonus, they would drive our luggage to the next guesthouse for us, meaning we'd only have to carry day packs.

We just had to get there. 

So, leaving our apartment, we caught a bus to the train station, and caught a train to the town of Tanabe, south of Osaka, in the nick of time. Unfortunately, the train was packed when we boarded, and we found ourselves standing, or in the kids case "sitting on the floor," for the first few stops; until the crowd thinned out and we could eventually grab a pair of seat.

Riding the train. Stella, especially, was bummed to not get a seat right away.

A couple of hours later, we unloaded off the train in Tanabe, and quickly found the travel agencies offices, where we were about to drop off our bags. The bus we needed to catch, didn't arrive for a couple of hours, so we took in a Shrine, which was dedicated to a pair of roosters. The roosters had been apparently used by two armies, in a cock fight. Tanabe used to have a powerful navy, and it was determined that Tanabe's army would join the army whose rooster won the fight. The white rooster won, and Tanabe's navy joined the corresponding side, turning the tide in the way.

After that, it was lunch in a tiny pocket of a restaurant, down an alley, where the woman serving waved us in with her cigarette, and instructed us to pick three dishes each for the set price. The food was good, if unnoteworthy, but you could tell the whole situation was a bit daunting for the kids. So, after that, it was shaved ice, and then lounging at the bus station.

The bus ride itself was roughly two hours long, winding through wilderness valleys and stopping regularly for people to board or depart. We passed scenic house and farms, fishermen and foresty vistas. For the most part, the kids got along, playing nicely with each other... but as we neared the two hour mark, you could tell they were starting to get stir-crazy. As we neared our stop, I started to fret about where we were supposed to be dropped off, but eventually, we were deposited at the first major shrine, the Kumano Hongu Taisha.

The shrine itself was located across the street from the bus stop, and up some stairs... a lot of stairs. 

Going up.

As we hiked the flag lined stairs, we discussed with the kids the do's and don't of Shinto Shrines. How to ceremonially wash your hands. How to bow before and after ending. The ritual of deposit a coin, ring the bell, bow twice, clap twice, say a prayer and bow again. Mind you, we were just learning all that ourselves. 

Otto washing his hands.

At the top of the stairs was the main shrine itself. A number of buildings, each with a shrine which (we only learned after the fact) you were supposed to visit in a certain order. Then back down the stairs. 

The shrine complex. On the flag, you can see the three-legged crow, which is the sign of the Kumano Kodo.

...And back down.

Across the street, and down a path through a rice paddy, was the site of the original location of the shrine, and the present day site of Japan's largest torii gate. Truly awe inspiring in scale. 

I love this picture, but...

...this picture probably better depicts the gate's size. Note tiny Otto, who isn't even half the height of the gate's concrete base.

Beyond the gate was the original shrine's location, and then we began to follow the trail in earnest. 

We're on the trail!

The first portion of the trail was wound up... way up. This first day, we were only hiking about 2 miles, but we quickly realized that the first half of the day's hike would be a climb, and the second half would be an equally steep descent. Also, we got our first taste of hiking in 90 degree weather, with something like 90% humidity. Brutal. 

Otto running ahead. Obviously more energy than his parents.

But, in addition, to all the up-up-up, we also came across several small shrine in the woods, and neat signs of the trails age: In one set of steps, you could see foot prints worn into the stone from generations of pilgrims hiking over them.

As we reached the ridge, and began our decent down, that humidity only increased, and we began to feel the pitter-patter of rain around us, and on our heads and shoulders. And, as we reached our destination, the onsen town of Yumano, that pitter-pattered became a downpour. Fortunately, we were able to find our guesthouse quickly, and check in.

Entering Yumano. You could smell the sulfur of the hot springs over the smell of the rain.

The guesthouse, which had, maybe four guestrooms, and it's own private thermal tubs, was run by a friendly and talkative lady who gave us a thorough run down of what's what, while really, only speaking about six words of English. Dinner was served at a set time, so we had a brief time to relax before making our way to the dining room for what would be an amazing meal.

Too many courses to detail, but all immaculately well prepared, and fresh. 

After dinner, it was time for our first baths in an onsen. To those unfamiliar with bathing at an onsen, like I was, it's quite an experience. Basically, you are divided up by gender and bath in a communal bathroom. First up, you sit, naked on a stool, where you soap and shampoo up, and then dump buckets of hot water over yourself to wash off. After that, you climb into a large tub, heated geothermally, to rest and relax. If you aren't used to semi-public nudity or are worried about making sure you follow local customs, it can be a bit daunting. But, since the guesthouse had it's own, private onsen, it allowed Otto and I to navigate our first baths with minimal embarrassment. 

Back in our rooms, tired from hiking, full of food, and relaxed from the hot bath, we all crashed pretty much straight away. 

The next morning, it was still downpouring. In fact, over breakfast, we heard from a pair of Danish hikers that there was actually a typhoon off the coast of Japan, and -while it wouldn't be coming inland- it was dumping a ton of water, and would be dumping water until sometime in the afternoon.

Still, the trail wasn't going to hike itself! So, we finished breakfast, packed our bags, threw on our rain jackets, checked out of our room, and headed out to catch the bus to the trailhead.

The town of Yumano is actually one of the major destinations along the trail. You see it in all the tourist videos. But, because of the rain, we sadly wouldn't get much opportunity to check it out. Still, making our way to the bus stop, we could take in some of it's charm and beauty. I could see that, if given more time and better weather, I would probably like it in the same way I enjoyed McCloud Ganj in India. 

In the rain, on the way to bus.

The river steaming because of the hot springs, and roiling from the typhoon's rain.

A short bus ride later, and a quick stop from lunch food, and we began our first full day of hiking. This day would be roughly 8 miles long. 8 wet miles. 

But, even from the start, we were making delightful surprises, like mountain crabs! Did you know crabs live in the forest, in Japan? Well, apparently, they do. And, they're bright orange.

These little crabs would appear on the trail from time to time. Usually, not far from small streams that, presumably are their main home. 

Equally impressive, but maybe not quite as charming, were the giant, purple worms. How big where they? This big!

This one was easily over a foot long, and thicker than any of the kids' fingers.

And what do the crabs eat? The giant worms, of course, as we learned later.

Also, early on, we see some small frogs, a snake and a centipede we'd been warned had a painful bite.

After several hours of hiking through heavy rain and mist, we reached a stunning viewpoint, and as luck would have it the clouds thinned, the rain reduced to a drizzle and things began to improve weather-wise. And, what a view it was!

Clouds rising from the trees. Hills and mountains disappearing into the distance. You usually don't equate Japan with this sort of wilderness.

A rare photo of Sarah and I together, standing at the viewpoint. You can both see how soaked we are, and also see one of the countless little shrines that dotted the trail.

All along the trail, we'd encounter little shrines. Some would be simple statues, propped on a small base, but other's were more built up, after with unique details or piles or cairns of rock stacked around them. 

Details from the trail...

This shrine had countless stones piles around it, presumably from countless pilgrims.

One of the more built up trailside shrines. It has a bell, and the plants seem to indicate someone maintains it.

Another shrine being reclaimed by the forest.

Not a shrine, but we'd occasionally hike along this ancient walls. Presumably part of the network of guesthouses and tea houses that used to dot the trail.

These poem stones started appearing late in the day. Sadly, no translation. 

Less common, but at key point's there were also these stamp stations. The kids each had a "passport" that they could put their stamps in, as we came across them. Each stamp was unique with well designed images depicting the importance of the location. 

At lunch we were able to stop at a covered picnic table, where we able to dig into our rice balls, and other food from the little grocery store. We also shared the space with the Danes we'd talked to at breakfast. They were one of the few people we encountered on the trail (the only other people we saw were a middle aged Japanese couple that was following a bit behind us, and a single Japanese man we saw hiking the other direction).

After lunch, the trail began to crawl down more and, while the rain had stopped, the rocks were slippery and felt more treacherous than when we'd been headed upward. The kids were doing well, overall, with Otto and I monologuing about (invented) "harranaga mushrooms" in an (equally invented) accent that sounded sort of like a drunk Woody Harrelson. 

Finally, we passed another covered area, next to the remains of an old teahouse, before descending down into the final valley of the hike. We crossed a bridge, had a soft drink break at a concession machine, then made the final push along the river, over a highway tunnel, and down into the small town we were supposed to meet the shuttle for our next guesthouse at.

After getting lost briefly, we find the payphone, and Sarah calls the guesthouse, while I take the kids across the street to get a snack from a grocery store run by an extremely sweet older woman. Then, while we rest and wait for our shuttle, we see a large group of men in matching outfits come marching down out of the forest, singing and chanting the whole way. Obviously pilgrims. Having completed their hike for the day, they load into a pair of parked mini-vans and head off to wherever they were staying that night. 

The pilgrims emerging from the forest, singing the whole way.

Snacks and a beer, while we wait.

The shuttle arrives and takes us a half hour's drive away, past a dozen or so beautiful waterfalls, to the onzen where we were staying that night. This place, which apparently used to be some sort of school or gymnasium, is a lot larger than the previous nights guesthouse. Tired from a long wet day, we eat quickly, bath and then crash. Tomorrow is the long day.

The next morning, we wake up early, pack, eat breakfast, collect our pre-made lunches (provided by the hotel) and catch the shuttle back to the trail head. 

This next part was the part we were probably the most worried about: 4.5km... almost entire straight uphill. And, the uphill starts nearly right away. First, it is a series of mossy, stone stairs, but eventually, that gives way to a rocky slope that seems to extend up forever through anonymous forest. 

Otto having triumphantly completed another flight of ancient stairs.

Up, up, a great day for up! This is what the trail looked like for a good 2 km.

By the time we were nearing the top of the big uphill portion, I was getting concerned. Otto was starting to get small blisters on his heel, Stella was complaining about a toe, and we'd already drunk nearly 3 of our 5 bottles of water. And, we still had 7+ miles of hiking ahead of us. In addition, we had these large bugs that may have been bees, or maybe just flies, circling us occasionally spooking the kids (and I). Morale was low. 

On the upside, we kept seeing charming little lizards skittering off the trail ahead of us.

Finally, we reach the highest point, and celebrate with some oranges. In the heat, and tired, they were amazing oranges. 

Shortly after that we came across a scenic stream, and then a detour onto a logging road we knew we'd have to follow for about an hour. The river provided a fun distraction for Otto, as he and I splashed our faces in it.

Continuing down the road, despite seeing a deer, the kids begin to get cranky and whiny. Realizing they are hungry, we take a brief break to eat dried fruit and gummy candy. Then, continue on down the road. 

Soon enough, the detour reunites with the trail, and we are treated to a surprise: An old teahouse location. And, next to that, a large, new shrine but -more importantly- a covered picnic table! A bathrooms! And concession machines!

So, we buy cold drinks, plop ourselves down at picnic table, and dig into our pre-made lunches. Morale turns around quickly!

Japanese style lunchboxes!

The shrine, seen across a koi pond.

With bellies full of lunch, we head out to finish our hike. For a short while, we are walking along a paved mountain road, where the old trail (barely visible through the trees) run parallel and now lies abandoned. Otto uses this portion to continue to splash his face, and take "showers" with the water that emerges from the hillside. 

After reuniting with the trail, we continue along, near a river, and occasionally our trail feels like a stream itself, with so much water from the previous days downpour still running down it.

We can only imagine how much water would have been on the trail if we hiked this portion yesterday.

After this, it's ups and down... but on the trail, and emotionally. We are all tired, and the kids are obviously spent. Their moods waxing and waning with the trail condition. At times, they are chatty, talking our ears off about Minecraft or what they want to be when they grow up, and at other times they are angry, and only want to complain and ask when will we be there.

A beetle. I just posted it here because it's pretty.

But, eventually, our trail emerges into what appears to be a large park, and we begin to wind down through it, past what appears to be a giant, metal slide, toward the final shrine: Kumano Nachi Taisha. After way too many stairs, we finally emerge onto Kumano Nachi Taisha, which actually consists of the shrine itself, a beautiful pagota, a Buddhist Temple and numerous other builds... and in the distance, Japanese tallest waterfall: Nachi-no-Otaki.

The kids, taking in the view, having just hiked approximately 20 miles over three days.

The pagoda with the waterfall in the background. (We actually saw the two guys from the Netherlands in the distance, while we were standing here. The kids tried to run after them like they were old friends, which probably went to show how desperate they were to talk to people who were their family.)

Buddhist temples, part of the complex of buildings.

The main Shinto shrine. A lot of the builds were covered and seemed to be in the middle of renovation. I've read somewhere that Shinto ideas of purity mean that they tear down and rebuild their shrines every 20 years.

But, while the builds and waterfall were beautiful, we'd arrived late enough that everything was in the process of closing down. In addition, the kids were still tired, cranky and hungry, and we were beginning to worry we would be late to check into our guesthouse. So, we moved on, first getting lost for a bit, before finally finding the trail that descended down to our guesthouse.

It would have been really beautiful, except at this point my knees were killing me, and we were rushing to check in before dinner.

The guesthouse this night was actually a really neat experience, since we were doing a home stay and actually staying at the house of an older Japanese woman. When we arrived at her beautifully landscaped house, she greeted us warming, helped us settle in, and drove us down to the neighborhood onzen to clean up while she made dinner. The onzen was a large building with modern cleaning stations and both an indoor and outdoor tub. Despite still feeling awkward, and worrying that my tattoos made me look like Yakuza, it was still a neat experience. 

Returning to the house, we were treated to another really great meal, before retiring to bed satisfied. 

Our hike complete.

Sarah, delighted by another amazing meal.

The kids, just grateful for some indoor screen time.